The World in Black and White: 6 Photographers Who have Mastered the Monochrome Lens

This article explores some of the most influential masters of black and white photography, artists who have redefined the medium with their unique perspectives. From the sculptural elegance of Robert Mapplethorpe to the haunting portraits of Peter Hujar, the provocative fashion imagery of Helmut Newton, and the dreamlike self-portraits of Francesca Woodman, these photographers each offered a unique view of the world. Hiroshi Sugimoto’s meditative, otherworldly landscapes probe the passage of time in deeply impactful ways, while Carrie Mae Weems harnesses black and white imagery to powerfully examine race, gender, and history.

Before the world was captured in vibrant hues through the lens of colour photography, photographers worked exclusively in black and white, playing on light and shadow. Black and white photography dominated from the mid 19th century until the mid 20th century. While colour photography existed as early as the 19th century, it remained expensive and less common until the development of Kodachrome in the 1930s. 

Even today, in an era dominated by saturated colour, black and white photography remains a powerful choice, stripping away distraction to highlight contrast, texture, and emotion. With this in mind, we wanted to explore some of the most iconic photographers who have embraced this medium as a deliberate and defining style. These artists have used monochrome to capture identity, beauty, and mortality, proving that sometimes, the absence of colour can say the most.

Though their styles and subjects differ, what unites them is their mastery of monochrome, transforming light and shadow into timeless, unforgettable works of art.

Robert Mapplethorpe 

One of the most iconic figures in black and white photography, Robert Mapplethorpe (1946–1989) was born in Queens, New York, and became known for his meticulously composed images. Originally studying painting and sculpture at the Pratt Institute, he transitioned to photography in the early 1970s, using a Polaroid camera before moving on to large-format prints. His work is characterized by a refined, classical aesthetic, whether capturing the raw physicality of the human form, the delicate curves of a flower, or the intensity of New York’s underground BDSM scene.

Mapplethorpe’s portraits are among his most enduring works, featuring celebrities, artists, and cultural icons of his time. His deep friendship and creative partnership with Patti Smith, the legendary musician and poet, was particularly significant. The two met in the late 1960s as struggling artists in New York and remained deeply connected throughout their lives. Mapplethorpe’s famous 1975 portrait of Smith, used for the cover of her album Horses, is one of the most iconic images in rock history.

Beyond portraiture, Mapplethorpe’s exploration of sexuality, gender, and the male form often in highly stylized and provocative compositions sparked both acclaim and controversy. His X Portfolio, which documented the underground gay leather scene, ignited debates on censorship and artistic freedom in the late 1980s. 

Le Stanze della Fotografia in Venice will host the Robert Mapplethorpe exhibition from April 10 to November 23, 2025, curated by Denis Curti.

​Peter Hujar

​Peter Hujar (1934–1987) was also a main figure in New York’s downtown bohemian scene, capturing its essence through his evocative black-and-white photography. Born in Trenton, New Jersey, Hujar immersed himself in Manhattan’s counterculture, forging connections with artists, musicians, and writers who, like him, challenged societal norms. His work intimately documented this vibrant subculture, featuring portraits of luminaries such as William S. Burroughs, and Candy Darling.​

Hujar’s photographs were included at the Barbican Art Gallery’s 2020 exhibition, “Masculinities: Liberation through Photography,” which explored the social constructs of masculinity from the 1960s onward. His inclusion highlighted his nuanced portrayal of gender and identity, reinforcing his status as a pivotal artist in examining these themes. ​Hujar’s work remains a testament to the raw beauty and complexity of the human experience, offering an unfiltered glimpse into the lives of those on society’s fringes.

During the AIDS crisis, Hujar documented the devastating impact of the epidemic on his community, capturing intimate and raw portraits of friends and lovers affected by the disease. One of his most moving photographs is of his partner, artist David Wojnarowicz, taken shortly after Wojnarowicz’s death from AIDS-related complications in 1987. Hujar ultimately passed away from AIDS-related complications later that same year.

The exhibition “Peter Hujar: Eyes Open in the Dark,” held at London’s Raven Row gallery from January 30 to April 6, 2025, provided a thorough exploration of Hujar’s later photography. It highlighted his intimate portraits of prominent figures from New York’s 1970s art scene, such as Susan Sontag and William Burroughs, alongside powerful street scenes and portraits of partners and people closest to him. Hujar had a remarkable ability to capture the raw, unfiltered essence of his subjects, imbuing his work with profound emotional depth.

Helmut Newton

Helmut Newton (1920–2004) was a German-Australian photographer whose bold, provocative high-contrast black-and-white images revolutionized fashion photography. Born in Berlin to a Jewish family, Newton fled Nazi Germany in 1938 and eventually settled in Australia before making his mark on the global fashion scene. His distinctive aesthetic—erotic, glamorous, and frequently provocative—challenged and expanded the portrayal of women in photography.

Newton’s work for Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar, and other fashion magazines redefined the genre, blending haute couture with themes of power, dominance, and voyeurism. His “Big Nudes” series, shot in the 1980s, remains one of his most iconic projects, presenting stark, imposing images of nude women that exuded strength and confidence. His subjects, often draped in leather and high heels, embodied a mix of seduction and authority, challenging traditional notions of femininity.

Beyond fashion, Newton’s portraits captured cultural icons such as Catherine Deneuve, David Bowie, and Charlotte Rampling with his signature cinematic style. His provocative, sometimes controversial approach sparked debates but cemented his status as one of the most influential photographers of the 20th century. His legacy continues to shape contemporary photography, with exhibitions and retrospectives showcasing his unmistakable vision of beauty, power, and desire.

On March 6, 2025, the Helmut Newton Foundation in Berlin opened Polaroids, a group exhibition presented as part of EMOP Berlin 2025, featuring works by Helmut Newton alongside numerous other photographers. The show runs until July 15th.

Francesca Woodman

Francesca Woodman (1958–1981) defied conventional self-portraiture by blurring the line between presence and absence. Her body often fades into peeling wallpaper, vanishes behind door frames, or is captured in fleeting, ethereal motions. Through her work, she delves into themes of identity, femininity, and transience, crafting an atmosphere that is both haunting and profoundly personal.

Born into an artistic family in Denver, Colorado, her father a painter and photographer, her mother a ceramicist and sculptor, Woodman was immersed in art from an early age. She began taking photographs in her early teens while attending boarding school. She would go on to capture over 800 images during her brief but impactful career.

Her artistic vision was influenced by European culture and surrealist art, particularly the works of Man Ray and Claude Cahun. Spending summers at her parents’ farmhouse near Florence, Italy, she absorbed elements that would later permeate her photography. At the Rhode Island School of Design, she refined her distinctive style, using long exposure times, unconventional framing, and dilapidated interiors to craft dreamlike narratives that seem to exist outside of time.

In 1979, Woodman relocated to New York with dreams of pursuing a career in fashion photography. Tragically, in 1981, at the age of 22, she took her own life. Despite her brief career, her powerful and intimate images have left a lasting impact. 

The ALBERTINA Museum in Vienna is currently hosting Austria’s first museum exhibition dedicated to Francesca Woodman, featuring works from the Verbund Collection, on display from April 4th to July 6th.

Hiroshi Sugimoto

Hiroshi Sugimoto, born in 1948 in Tokyo, Japan, is a photographer and contemporary artist whose work explores the themes of time, memory, and the metaphysical. After studying politics and sociology at Rikkyō University in Tokyo, he moved to the United States in 1970, earning a Bachelor of Fine Arts from the Art Center College of Design in Pasadena, California.

Sugimoto’s photography is characterized by a meticulous and concept-driven approach, often employing large-format cameras to create images that explore the passage of time and the boundaries between reality and illusion. His notable series include “Dioramas,” where he photographs natural history displays to question perceptions of reality; “Theaters,” capturing entire films in a single exposure to depict the accumulation of time; and “Seascapes,” presenting minimalist images of sea and sky that evoke a sense of timelessness. 

Through his diverse body of work, Sugimoto continues to invite viewers to contemplate the ephemeral nature of reality and the enduring passage of time.​ He had an exhibition earlier this year in January at Lisson gallery Los Angeles.

Carrie Mae Weems

Carrie Mae Weems, born in 1953 in Portland, Oregon, explores themes of power, history, and identity in her work. Her art often delves into themes of race, identity, gender, and history, reflecting both personal and collective experiences. Weems rose to prominence with her 1990 series The Kitchen Table Series, which portrayed intimate narratives and challenged societal norms surrounding family, relationships, and power dynamics. Through her work, she engages with complex cultural issues, using visual storytelling to prompt reflection and conversation.

From January to February 2025, Fraenkel Gallery in San Francisco presented an exhibition featuring new works alongside key pieces from her career. A highlight was the debut of two photographs from her ongoing “Museum Series,” created in fall 2024, where Weems engages with the architecture of San Francisco’s Legion of Honor and its Rodin sculpture, “The Thinker.” The series explores how power is embedded in cultural institutions. Also featured were large-scale colour photographs from “Painting the Town,” capturing boarded-up storefronts in Portland, Oregon, after the George Floyd protests. These abstract images, with paint covering anti-racist graffiti, reflect on the erasure of Black voices and histories. Her 2021 series Painting the Town will be on view at the Rijksmuseum from February 7 to June 9, 2025.

Though varying styles, subjects, and eras differ, these photographers utilize black and white to reveal something deeper, whether it’s the raw intimacy of Francesca Woodman, the cinematic grandeur of Helmut Newton, or the meditative stillness of Hiroshi Sugimoto. From the social commentary of Carrie Mae Weems to the uncanny, Bohemian portraits of Peter Hujar, each artist uses monochrome not as a limitation, but as a means to strip away distraction and heighten emotion. Their works prove that even in a world saturated with colour, black and white photography remains timeless, evocative, and essential.